The following times are guidelines and depend on many factors, like type of coffee, washing soda and Vitamin C used. If you have different results with the values shown here, please let me know and we will work out the difference.
If you click on the Film type, you will be taken to a post with an example picture if available.
Color/B&W? Film Type ISO Recipe Dev Comments
BW Ilford Delta 400 400 Delta-STD 09:00
BW Ilford Delta 3200 3200 Delta-STD 12:00
BW Ilford HP5 Plus 400 Delta-STD 10:00 double Vitamin C
BW Ilford PANF 50 50 Delta-STD 07:45 High Contrast
Color Kodak Gold 200 200 Delta-STD 11:00
Color Kodak Porta 160 NC 160 Delta-STD 11:00
Color Fujicolor 1600 1600 FCA 30:00 very dense
BW ORWO PAN 100 100 Delta-STD 11:00 quite grainy
BW Kodak TMAX 400 400 Delta-STD 11:00 double Vitamin C
BW Agfa Copex Rapid 32 Delta-MICRO 17:00 Very high contrast
BW Lucky SHD 100 100 Delta-STD 14:00
film time processing chart
Dirk Essl is the founder of caffenol.org And has done a tremendous amount of coffee development in the past. 
The amazingly currently cheap Legacy Pro 400 works great with the Delta recipe with a developing time of 11 minutes.
I have a quick question here :
What is the FCA recipe referred to in the chart above here?
This interests me because I have had problems with Fuji color negative films and caffenol.
The FCA recipe is my First CAffenol try, it was based on the digitaltruth recipe but without Vitamin C and temperature of 23°C, constant agitation.
I think you need to try out Reinhold’s CC-L formula, but cut down on Mr R’s time recommendations! I have had trouble with Fuji color negative films also, but that was ISO 200 and the problem was exactly the opposite, instead of very dense film, mine was (almost) totally blank! I’m working on the problem.
Are there any Caffenol-C recipes for continuous agitation in a Jobo tank? I can do hand agitation for 120 film, but just continuous for 5×4 large format.
Hi,
There are any number of sites now where you can get the recipes for caffenol but I’m finding it difficult to locate any that tell you what to do after the developer has been used.
I’m assuming that the stop bath, fixing etc are all the same as standard processing so that’s what I’ll try.
Is there anywhere that lists the steps in the process beyond developing and whether there are alternative “home brew” chemicals that do the job?
Malcolm,
I don not use any stop bath, I just ‘stop’ with water 2 times before I put in the fixer.
You will need to buy fixer, the mystery about fixing film in salt water is and stays a mystery. It will not give satisfactory results.
Basically there are only a few steps:
- Put in developer, agitate according to standards
- Stop with water
- Fix with fixer, diluted according to fixer manual
- wash film (search for Ilford wash technique on google)
- hang film and let dry in a place without too much dust (bathroom)
Thanks for this chart, I am interested in trying to develop a fast film in caffenol.. My internet search keep telling me not to bother but I want to…..
Any additional tips aside from a long developing time? its an ilford 3200
Yvonne,
Have a look here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/dirkessl/4040277271/
and here: http://www.caffenol.org/2010/11/07/scan-vs-print/
To see what you can expect from this film. There will be a lot of grain, that’s for sure. I really don’t know why everybody is saying High speed film in caffenol doesn’t work, because I find it just works out great. Negatives where even good enough to be printed, as seen in the Scan VS. print post.
cheers,
dirk
Caffenol C (without extra Vitamin C) worked well with HP5+ with a dev time of 24 mins at 20C – 30 seconds inversion in first minute and then 4 inversions per minute. This is same time as with my usual Microphen.
Hey !
the dev chart advices 10 minutes (at 20C ?).
you advise for 24 minutes.
… can someone else have an experiences input on that matter ? that would be helpfull
Cheers !
I did try the time in the dev chart with the recommended double vitamin C – however I got very thin negatives. I then tested offcuts of fully exposed film leader in small amounts of the Delta-STD (Caffenol C) mix for various times. I found that to get the same density as with my standard purchased developer I needed 24 mins development.
Has anyone used Caffenol to develop Kodak Tri-X 400 (that is shot at iso 200), or used it to develop Ilford Multigrade IV fiber based paper? Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Jackie,
I have never used much Tri-X, but know that it works. Shooting ISO 400 at 200 is just not my style
It would be interesting how this works out in caffenol.
Ilford Multigrade paper works, I use that all the time.
Thank you dirk. In your opinion (or anyones elses opinion) which variation of the recipe do you think would work best with Tri-X 400?
I use http://www.caffenol.org/2010/03/12/the-delta-recipe/ for about everything but Microfilm.
you can have a look at Reinholds blog who has maybe the most successful recipes in the net.
http://caffenol.blogspot.com/search/label/TriX%20400