Film Development Chart

The following times are guidelines and depend on many factors, like type of coffee, washing soda and Vitamin C used. If you have different results with the values shown here, please let me know and we will work out the difference.
If you click on the Film type, you will be taken to a post with an example picture if available.

Color/B&W?Film TypeISORecipeDevComments
BWIlford Delta 400400Delta-STD09:00
BWIlford Delta 32003200Delta-STD12:00
BWIlford HP5 Plus400Delta-STD10:00
BWIlford PANF 5050Delta-STD07:45High Contrast
ColorKodak Gold 200200Delta-STD11:00
ColorKodak Porta 160 NC160Delta-STD11:00
ColorFujicolor 16001600FCA30:00very dense
BWORWO PAN 100100Delta-STD11:00quite grainy
BWKodak TMAX 400400Delta-STD11:00
BWAgfa Copex Rapid32Delta-MICRO17:00Very high contrast
BWLucky SHD 100100Delta-STD14:00
BWFomapan 400400Delta-STD12:00

film time processing chart


nedford · December 3, 2010 at 9:31 pm

The amazingly currently cheap Legacy Pro 400 works great with the Delta recipe with a developing time of 11 minutes.

dirk · December 16, 2010 at 5:48 pm

The FCA recipe is my First CAffenol try, it was based on the digitaltruth recipe but without Vitamin C and temperature of 23°C, constant agitation.

David · January 11, 2011 at 1:37 am

Are there any Caffenol-C recipes for continuous agitation in a Jobo tank? I can do hand agitation for 120 film, but just continuous for 5×4 large format.

    Charles Stiffler · May 8, 2019 at 5:00 am

    David, I just tripped over this post and have experienced heavily stained edges on my 35mm, and quite noticeable bromide drip on my 120. For the moment focusing on inversion. My earlier tests it was less visible, but as I found a good process time, it was there.

Malcolm · March 24, 2011 at 12:35 am


There are any number of sites now where you can get the recipes for caffenol but I’m finding it difficult to locate any that tell you what to do after the developer has been used.

I’m assuming that the stop bath, fixing etc are all the same as standard processing so that’s what I’ll try.

Is there anywhere that lists the steps in the process beyond developing and whether there are alternative “home brew” chemicals that do the job?

    dirk · March 24, 2011 at 11:30 am


    I don not use any stop bath, I just ‘stop’ with water 2 times before I put in the fixer.
    You will need to buy fixer, the mystery about fixing film in salt water is and stays a mystery. It will not give satisfactory results.

    Basically there are only a few steps:
    – Put in developer, agitate according to standards
    – Stop with water
    – Fix with fixer, diluted according to fixer manual
    – wash film (search for Ilford wash technique on google)
    – hang film and let dry in a place without too much dust (bathroom)

Yvonne · May 22, 2011 at 5:16 am

Thanks for this chart, I am interested in trying to develop a fast film in caffenol.. My internet search keep telling me not to bother but I want to….. 🙂

Any additional tips aside from a long developing time? its an ilford 3200

    dirk · May 22, 2011 at 5:06 pm


    Have a look here:
    and here:
    To see what you can expect from this film. There will be a lot of grain, that’s for sure. I really don’t know why everybody is saying High speed film in caffenol doesn’t work, because I find it just works out great. Negatives where even good enough to be printed, as seen in the Scan VS. print post.

    julius · June 5, 2015 at 9:49 pm

    hi, did you had results developing 3200?

    zapi9999 · October 6, 2015 at 11:25 am

    Hi Yvonne.. in my experience – do a test film and try it … if it doesn’t work then adjust different and try again … What we do know is that caffenol develops silver-based emulsions … so there is no reason why it won’t work. Temperature, timing, age of film will all have an effect. I have found that many people only go by what the majority says not by experience. The only way to really discover is to go against prevailing opinion and do something new – then you will be the expert … I haven’t tried high speed film yet myself – I am currently experimenting with developing colour films (as mono) with caffenol and having some interesting and pleasing results…. If you want LOTS of big grain then that’s what you will get with fast film generally with or without caffenol. Bigger chunks of silver are needed in the emulsion to capture the light … Have fun 🙂

      Brent · May 30, 2022 at 2:37 am

      Also, if you have a color chemical kit available, you can make positive (orange-tinted) C-41 films using caffenol. Develop the C-41 film in caffenol pushed for 5 stops, then run 7 changes of water through the tank, then open the tank and expose the developed film to the light (give it plenty of light). Then develop it in the C-41 kit for double the normal time, then blix for double the normal time. You do not need to use hydrogen peroxide with imitation lemon juice after the first development. Just develop in color over the black and white development as if you are recording over a cassette tape. When you develop in the caffenol, it does not write the color information to the film…it just invalidates the negative part so it becomes a mask which allows the undeveloped part which you then later expose to light to become developed with the color developer and it then writes the color information which happens to be a positive image. You DO need to waste a few strips with a bulk cassette wound in complete darkness yanked out of a regular cassette to get the timing right. I have gotten it to work with 22 minutes at 68 deg F in the caffenol step, and 7 minutes of the color developing step, and 16 minutes with the blix step.

David Bloor · December 4, 2011 at 10:02 pm

Caffenol C (without extra Vitamin C) worked well with HP5+ with a dev time of 24 mins at 20C – 30 seconds inversion in first minute and then 4 inversions per minute. This is same time as with my usual Microphen.

    Christophe C. · January 27, 2012 at 12:48 pm

    Hey !
    the dev chart advices 10 minutes (at 20C ?).
    you advise for 24 minutes.
    … can someone else have an experiences input on that matter ? that would be helpfull 🙂
    Cheers !

      David Bloor · January 28, 2012 at 11:14 am

      I did try the time in the dev chart with the recommended double vitamin C – however I got very thin negatives. I then tested offcuts of fully exposed film leader in small amounts of the Delta-STD (Caffenol C) mix for various times. I found that to get the same density as with my standard purchased developer I needed 24 mins development.

      marisa · July 16, 2015 at 7:51 pm

      I know this is over 3 years later, but I have developed about 10 rolls of HP5 ranging from 8 minutes to 18 minutes and I have been sticking to around 10/12 minutes. I wonder if three years later you also have some advice :)!

Jackie Greiner · January 16, 2012 at 1:13 am

Has anyone used Caffenol to develop Kodak Tri-X 400 (that is shot at iso 200), or used it to develop Ilford Multigrade IV fiber based paper? Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

    dirk · January 16, 2012 at 7:05 am


    I have never used much Tri-X, but know that it works. Shooting ISO 400 at 200 is just not my style 🙂 It would be interesting how this works out in caffenol.
    Ilford Multigrade paper works, I use that all the time.

Darren · March 22, 2012 at 12:27 am

Hi just discovered caffenol and joined the FB community too. Just wondered, are there any development times for Agfa APX 100? I’ve got a lot of rolls to use and to go back to processing them myself would be great.

    dirk · March 22, 2012 at 8:37 am


    I would start with 11 minutes and then adjust the time accordingly if you don’t like the result.

Antonio · March 30, 2012 at 10:29 pm

Does anyone know the FujiFilm Neopan Acros 100 iso? That’s the one I’m shooting ad will be developing with caffenol….

Derrick · April 21, 2012 at 2:45 pm

Hi Dirk,

Just wondering if these recipes will work for Lomography films? I have only just stumbled across caffenol but I must say I am very excited to give it a try! Thank you for sharing this with us.

    dirk · April 22, 2012 at 1:27 pm


    So far there is only one film to my knowledge that doesn’t develop in caffenol: Rollei Retro 100S.
    All other films should just be fine.

Derrick · April 22, 2012 at 4:08 pm

Hi Dirk,

Thank you for your reply, although I can’t see it on here. I have never developed any film before this so this will be interesting. Is there any tips or do’s and dont’s that you have for a beginner? Also any tips on building or setting up a make-shift darkroom?

Thank you again.


Sebastian · May 9, 2012 at 8:33 am

I just found today about Caffenol and i am as thrilled as i can be for i just finished shooting a fujicolor 200 roll today, so i’m hoping that if any of you had experience developing this type of film with caffenol would kindly share any tips, this is great!!! this for me is the best discovery of the year!!

    dirk · May 9, 2012 at 11:21 am


    I would suggest using Delta-STD and develop it for 11 minutes at 20 centigrades. THis should be a good starting point for this type of film.

    A.j. Ross · February 28, 2013 at 8:08 am

    what Dirk said but don’t get too discouraged if you’re like me and it doesn’t turn out. I tried it for 11min and it didn’t appear to be enough time BUT I didn’t have another roll I was willing to scarefice for experimentation. I would say get a few rolls, shoot on just any old balony that catches your eye that will give you all the proper elements needed for judging the outcome (shadows, highlights, mid tones, contrast, hard lines, curves etc). Just shoot shoot shoot, cut into strips of about 3-5 frames each one at a time as you load them into the tank and develop them one at a time.
    Say start with 11min and if it looks like it needs more time go to say 13 or 14 minutes… Just give it a few tries and see what you get. that’s what I had to do with this Kentmere 100.

Sebastian · May 30, 2012 at 8:30 pm

Hello to all Caffenol friends, i have a roll of kodak ultramax 400 (color film) and i would like to know what recipe and times you would suggest for developing this type of film, thank you!

    Lisa · August 9, 2014 at 8:10 am

    I’m new to caffenol processing but the first roll I processed with caffenol was Kodak Ultramax 400. I got good enough results from it to share how it went. I used this recipe: and developed for 12 mins at about 20°C. The negatives came out dense but scan really well. Hope that helps.

baxjj · November 30, 2012 at 3:24 pm


I have been lurking here for a month and have a couple of questions. I’m a tad confused: I see recipes in isolation of agitation schemes and development times. I see development times and agitation schemes without mention of recommended films or format (ie 35 / 120 / 4×5). This caffenol noob is a unsure where to begin and at a loss for what to do about the 4×5 development! Can you help?

I am planning on developing some FP4+ film (in 35, 120 and 4×5). I am planning on using the Delta-STD recipe.

I am planning on using the Mod54 and Patterson tank for the 4×5 work. I’ll be using the same Paterson tank and reels for the 35 and 120 work.

Folks,what do you recommend for development / agitation for each of these film sizes? (I’m guessing different development times and agitation schemes for the different film formats?)

Your thoughts re these questions are all very greatly appreciated.



Wojtek · January 10, 2013 at 8:58 pm

First of all I would like to thank for great recipes and all the info on this site was very helpful. It encouraged me to try caffenol and developing film by myself.
I really don’t have much experience in developing, just did my 9-th roll of film and I need some help.
First four rolls I did with caffenol turned out amazing. Really I didnt expect it for my first try.
Film was rebranded Konica VX 200, expired, I used DELTA-STD (ECO+ cheap instant coffe, pure Na2CO3-ahydrate, crushed vit-c tablets, all measured on scale)/1min presoak/11min developing/cold tap water/agitation for 10 sec every minute. It turned out simply great, scanned well.
But then I tried it on Fuji Super G 100 film. It came out massivly underdeveloped. Same time, same ingredients. Then I tried 4 minutes longer, hardly anything changed, film wouldn’t even scan, it is thick and dark.
Next I tried double vit-c and 20 minutes developing…same story it hardly makes any difference.
So my question is, what can I do to make this film work, what to add or maybe increase temperature…Or maybe just this film won’t work?
I appreciate any help

    A.j. Ross · February 28, 2013 at 8:00 am

    you’re over processing it if the film is thick and dark if the image when scanned is dark then it’s over processed. I myself haven’t had much experience in developing but I’ve had enough fails to see what results in what PLUS both my parents were big into photography in the 70’s and even took college courses.

    if you take the film straight from the tank and hold it up to the light and the fil itself and the image are very thin and clear looking and there almost no image at all then it’s UNDER processed; If it’s very dark and hard and almost black then it’s OVER processed.

    I would recommend 1- using only distilled bottled water ESPECIALLY for mixing fixer because the chemicals, contaminates, etc, in the tap water WILL mess up your chemistry.
    2- eliminating the presoak. You get a more harsh glowy image but I noticed for the film I’m currently using if I presoak it it will do 2 things one of which is to extend the time it takes to develop because the chemicals can’t go to work directly on the film w/o fighting through the water already soaked into it and the second thing a presoak does with my film is it actually creates a more inconsistant result.
    3- I would cut developing time from 11min down to say 8min and see what you have from there.

    All in all it may just be one of the incompatible films that doesn’t work well with Caffenol C.
    Like I said I haven’t had a TON of experience but I have don’t about 20-30 rolls with a good 4 or 5 being what you might call “learning opportunities”.

    Other opinions and advice would be helpful though.

Emma · February 23, 2013 at 9:40 am

Hey 🙂 Does anyone know whether caffenol can be used with Lomography Redscale xr 50-200? I’ve been using it as if it was ISO 160.

A.j. Ross · February 28, 2013 at 7:47 am

Greetings and salutations.

I just wanted to stop in and let you all know the cake is a lie. oops sorry I meant the fact that you cannot reuse caffenol is a lie.

About 3 or four months ago I was like “hmm this stuff really isn’t good to go down the drain, I don’t feel like going to the photomat to recycle my chemicals EVERY time I develop film and it’s a pain in the ass to spend 20min-1hr mixing just to develop 1 roll.

So I took the Delta-STD (double C) recipe, did some calculations to make 1 gal in place of the 16oz I was making (I’m not too keen w/ metric units) mixed the 3 parts separate in 1pt-1qt distilled water and then carefully added (WARNING IT WILL FOAM OVER WHEN MIXED) the parts together and topped off with distilled water.

I’ve stored it in a “cool” (between 30F and 75F) dark location such as a little used closet and successfully (somewhat. aside from operator error most were a success) developed 2 rolls of Illford HP5, 3 rolls of Tmax 100, 2 rolls of Kodak Gold 200 fail and about 12-15 rolls of Kentmere 100; Though the last 2 are showing signs of chemical exhaustion.

There’s a few tips tricks to it is such as:

-Use a CLEAN container, be it a thoroughly washed milk jug or an “official” chemical jug. CLEAN, free of foreign chemicals and if at all possible dry is probably a determining factor in quality of outcome.

-Use purified distilled water ONLY; Tap water can and usually does have chemicals, additives and contaminants in it which will fuck up your chemicals. Distilled water for not only your developer but also rinses, stop baths and fixers will produce better results almost certainly. For rinse and final rinse/wetting agent I use Tap water and a tine bit of automatic dish detergent as a wetting agent and it doesn’t do too bad though I’m suspect that the tap water could be killing my developer as of late.

-ALWAYS squeeze the bottle to get ALL the air out before capping it for storage. I tend to suspect that much like the fixer the caffenol is rendered ineffective by AIR more than light.

-Personally I use a stop bath I made out of 1+1/2 to 2 cups of white vinegar mixed with distilled water to make 1 gal (3.8L) of stop bath which I use. I develop, pour my soup back into the container from wench it came, rinse for 1 minute with clear water (so about 3 time continuously and dump it out) till the water comes out clear, pour in my stop bath and aggitate continuously for 3 minutes, pour back into container, rinse with clean water for 1-2 minutes more to keep from contaminating my fixer with the stop bath and then fix.

Furthermore, if anyone is wondering what developing times are needed for Kentmere 100 (I have to just run test strips to find out) seeing as how oyu can get a 100ft bulk roll for $35 or 100ft of 400 for $25, making it super cost effective. I’ve found that Kentmere 100 requires 14:00 in the soup at 68F (20C) and 11:00 at 72F (22.2C) so pretty much 14min @ 68 and -1min/+degree.

The following images were scanned in at 3200dpi (my scanner goes up to 12800) from the last roll I developed, which to my surprise didn’t turn out as bad as I thought. As far as editing I’ve only run them through the scanned with grain reduction, dust removal and unsharp mask; I didn’t even touch the brightness, contrast etc so what you see is pretty much the solid outcome of proper exposure and proper process.

So if you mix a good and fairly large batch of Caffenol C, handle and store it as any other developer it should preform comparably with a shelf life of say 3-4 months.

Tas · April 23, 2013 at 8:03 pm

Does anyone has got experience with developing ilford delta 100. I would be lucky for some advice developing the film with caffenol-c-m. Any time hints? Thanx.

    dirk · April 24, 2013 at 2:45 pm

    Just start with 15 minutes and adjust accordingly.

      Tas · April 24, 2013 at 3:38 pm

      Wow. Did not expect it that long. I suggested something about 12 min. Did You experienced that time for that certain film yourself?
      Thank you. I will give it try.

      Tas · April 27, 2013 at 1:13 pm

      ok, shot a roll of delta 100 yesterday with my “agfa click”. this camera only has got 2 apertures (sunny and cloudy weather – f8/f11?) by time of 1/30s. it was designed for ISO 50 in the 1950s. took my shots always with both apertures. so i guessed all shots turned out a bit overexposed by ca. +1 to +3 stops.
      Developed with caffenol-m for 12 min. was my first caffenol try and I was pretty amazed by the results.
      scanned with epson v500: best results always with the +3 pics. the +1 pics turned out a bit to dense for good scanning, but still manageable. so next time il try about 14 minutes.
      thanx for the great blog. this was defently not my last caffenol try.
      camera already loaded again, sun ist shining. let’s go…

      TAS · April 27, 2013 at 8:01 pm

      oh, i mixed it up. so the correction:
      +1 pictures have been the best results and best for scanning. +3 have been a bit to dense. so i will stay with 12min for the delta 100.

    Tas · May 25, 2013 at 2:01 pm

    Just posted the results of my first caffenol experiences on my homepage… Of course including some tonal curve settings via gimp.
    I’ll keep on playing!

    Camera: Agfa Click II
    Film: Ilford Delta 100 (exception: front of house: kodak portra 160)
    Scanner: Epson V500

      A.j. Ross · April 1, 2014 at 5:32 am

      Hazza! very good. those photo’s are amazing. I was just looking at the ones I’ posted a while back all in all a good bit of glow and a little too flat mine were. yours seemed to turn out pretty great. I just had a battle with 3 $8.50 rolls of Delta 100 and Caffenol-C-L (Caffenol C w/ .5gr Kbr aka Potassium Bromide/Liter) and lost horribly. Everything I could find said either 15minutes standard agitation (first 30 seconds and 10 seconds every minute) OR 70 minutes STAND development (agitation for first 45 seconds then set it down and leave it for the remainder of the time)… Well I Tried some at 13 minutes and NOPE…15 minutes Still under, 20 minutes standard agitation and it was STILL under processed so I tried the rest of the last roll at the suggested 70min Stand development and it was WAY over processed and inconsistent. there’s places in the film where it’s like blotches of dark and light where it developed unevenly and spans a frame or 2. or half a frame… yeah kinda ticks me off a fair bit. maybe I should try douling the Vitamin C.

      Though I am quite inclined to just dump it and get some Perceptol 3 or D-76 seeing as how they both do exceptionally well with Kentmere AND Delta 100 films which I prefer ( I wanna say D-76 is stock for Kentmere and 1+1 for Delta and Perceptol I wanna say works best at 1+9 for both films as per the result of HOURS (like 4… 5 nonstop) of research trying to find a danged soup for these films. 🙁

Daniel · July 23, 2013 at 11:30 pm

Would the development time for Arista edu 100 be the same as the other 100 Asa films or shorter, or longer? Also what recipe would i use?

Michael Daily · August 10, 2013 at 1:58 am

Any comments/concerns/remarks for 8×10 sheet film in roller/tube processing? (i.e.: continuous processing in 1 liter batches?)

Matt Cavanagh · March 19, 2014 at 1:12 pm

Great call on the Ilford HP5 400, by the way!

luis rubim · May 26, 2014 at 9:19 pm

Hi great resource you got here.

I noticed that neither DigitalTruth or this blog has Ilford Delta 100 120 developed in Caffenol listed. I have experimented with an old roll of said film and it turned out great.
It was developed with Caffenol C, stand development for 40 mins at 25C, agitation for the first minute. Then it was stopped in vinegar and fixed in sea salt solution for 48h.

I just thought I would add this for your consideration.



Lisa · August 9, 2014 at 9:22 am

I was wondering about vitamin c concentration, and by that I mean that I noticed some of the comments say double the vitamin c or no vitamin c. How does changing the amount of vitamin c affect the film? How would I know if I should increase, decrease, or exclude vitamin c? Thanks.

caio lima · December 16, 2014 at 11:34 pm

how about the fuji across 100?

n · February 23, 2015 at 11:15 am


I was wondering about developing times for Ilford FP4 125, since you mention it works fine, but the chart doesn’t have any information. Thanks! n

Matías · February 28, 2015 at 5:43 am

Hi! I´ve tried today with a Fuji Neopan Acros 100 using Delta-STD, 9minutes 20 seconds at 23 degrees. Even after scanning the photograph it´s OK, the developed film is quite clear with a lack of contrast so I will try again developing for 1 minute and a half more.

zapi9999 · October 6, 2015 at 9:22 am

Ilford FP4: 15 mins (2nd use of caffenol mixture). Recipe: 500ml water, 72g washing soda (decahydrate, UK) 8g vit c tablets ground in pestle/mortar, 20g cheap coffee granules. Fixer: 100 sodium thiosulphate in 500ml water. Pretty good results, would reduce dev time to 13/14 minutes in future.

Syed Hasan · June 25, 2016 at 6:15 pm

Hi, I have a roll of Ilford HP5 Plus 400 ISO film. I was wondering if I should agitate in the 10 minutes of developing time, and if I should, for how long should I agitate. Thank You!

Eamon · August 22, 2016 at 6:16 pm

Anyone have any advice for ages Vista 200

mich · October 10, 2018 at 9:27 am

Has someone tried to develop Washi W films with Caffenol?

R.king · February 21, 2019 at 10:34 am

Hi, best recipes for FP4 and TMax 100? Kodak colour using same fix?

Richard Eugene Puckett · April 19, 2020 at 12:58 am

For Agfa Copex Rapid producing continous tone, normal negatives with a latitude of 14 stops, refer to the Caffenol L C formula (and processing) at the following url. Note that the caffenol must be properly prepared, using distilled or demn water, and completely dissolved, allowed to stand for 5 minutes before use. I have found distilled water is necessary for developer, wash, fix, and for post washing, including hypo clear. For water conservation refer to the Ilford URL after the Caffenol LC:

Water wash technique to conserve water (especially appropriate for ACR which requires only 5 minlutes of regular wash anyway:

Follow these instructions and make gorgeous 8x10s from 35mm ACR, at least as tight as 645 enlargements, and amazing 11×14 or 15×15 enlargements from 6×6, 6×7…

Stay well!

Chance · February 6, 2021 at 2:00 am

Anyone did kentmere 400? Im not seeing it in the chart.

Txema · February 3, 2022 at 10:19 pm

Hi there, I wanna try caffenol with Kodak Tri X super 8 mm film on a Lomo Tank! any recipe? anyone who has done it? Thanx!

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